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Polenta with caramelized onions and roasted green beans and carrots.

Dennis Patillo is a committed foodie and chef. He has spent a lifetime studying foods from around the world as well as regional cuisines.

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Polenta with caramelized onions and roasted green beans and carrots.

While I enjoy elements of almost all cuisines, my favorite is Italian. It is the food I grew up with and the first food I learned to cook.

In many respects, Italian food is the easiest to learn and cook. It relies on simple but high-quality ingredients.

That said, the high-quality ingredients are incredibly affordable. Think fresh vegetables, fruits, grains and olive oils. Meats are seldom the centerpiece of a meal but serve more as an ingredient of a dish.

Pasta may be the first thing that comes to mind when we think of Italian food. There are a dizzying number of types and shapes of pasta, each designed to accompany an equally wide array of sauces and fillings.

In northern Italy, polenta is an essential component of everyday food.

As we know it today, polenta is a cornmeal mush. It is served either soft and creamy or firm and grilled or fried. It is served with almost anything that accompanies pasta, or it can be sweetened and served for dessert. It is the ultimate comfort food for many Italians.

Grain mushes have been a staple of Italian sustenance since ancient times. Before corn was introduced from the Americas in the 16th century, Romans ate mushes made from ground buckwheat, farro and chickpeas. Theses mushes were known as “puls.” While grain mushes have not totally disappeared, polenta made from cornmeal is the most common.

Polenta is just cornmeal cooked in boiling, then simmering, water. You can use any cornmeal you have, but if you want the very best possible, most authentic polenta, there is a heritage form of flint corn that is used in Northern Italy. This type of cornmeal is easy to find online and is not pricey. Just Google “flint corn polenta.”

I am by no means trying to disparage American cornmeal, which is generally made from a type of dent corn. If that is what you have, use it. If you do not go for the Italian variety, you should consider stone ground. You can choose either fine or coarse grain or use a combination of both.

Quality polenta takes a while to cook, about 45 minutes. Over a slow fire, it takes this long for the grains of the meal to completely hydrate and develop a simply delicious depth of flavor. You will find instant polenta in the grocery store but be assured that the end product is not the same as the polenta that has been prepared in the traditional fashion.

The ratio for preparing polenta is approximately four parts water to one part cornmeal for firm polenta. Five parts water for one part cornmeal for silky smooth polenta.

Contrary to what you may have heard it is not necessary to continually stir the polenta for the entire cooking time. Once the mixture comes to a boil, reduce the heat to a bare simmer and stir every 10 minutes or so. If you find the polenta is becoming thicker than you want simply add additional water, one half cup at a time.

There is a debate among Italian cooks whether you add the cornmeal to boiling salted water or whether you add the cornmeal to the cold water and then bring the mixture to a boil. I have done both, and it really does not make a difference.

I will say that adding the cornmeal to boiling water comes with an element of danger. The mixture can easily top the pan if the pan is too small and the end product can be lumpy if you add the cornmeal too fast and do not stir vigorously enough.

My aunt used to cook her polenta in the oven. She just set the oven at 350 degrees, added a knob of butter to the 4 to 1 mixture and cooked the polenta for 45 minutes stirring only once. This is really easy, and it works, but you will not impress your friends with your stovetop diligence nor will you earn your chef’s coat.

The polenta can be served immediately in a shallow bowl and topped with your favorite ragu, braised meats or roasted vegetables. Before topping I like to stir in an obscene amount of freshly grated parmesan or fontina cheese. Alternatively, you can stir in a large hunk of unsalted butter. If you are feeling particularly decadent, use it all. Remember, enough is seldom enough.

For grilled or fried polenta, simply stir in butter and/or your favorite cheese and pour the mixture into a rimmed and buttered sheet pan to a depth of about ¾ inch and let cool. Cut into your favorite shapes. I like triangles. Grill over medium high heat in a little olive oil.

I have so much more to say but my word count is getting excessive. I hope you try this. By the way, polenta is not the same as grits, but I will cover that topic in a future column.

Dennis Patillo is a committed foodie and chef. He has spent a lifetime studying foods from around the world as well as regional cuisines. His passion is introducing people to ingredients and techniques that can be used in their home kitchen. He and his wife, Louise, own The PumpHouse Riverside Restaurant and Bar.

Method 1: Bring salted water to a boil. Slowly add the cornmeal in a steady stream, stirring constantly. Reduce to a bare simmer and stir periodically. The goal is to keep the mixture from sticking. You can add a Tblsp. or two of butter to help with this. Cook for at least 45 minutes. It doesn't hurt to cook longer to get the flavor you are looking for. If mixture becomes too thick add water, ½ cup at a time to achieve the thickness you desire.

Method 2: This is the same as Method 1, except add everything at once and bring to a boil stirring until the mixture comes to a boil and then reduce to a bare simmer. 

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